Geography of Crete
Crete is the largest island in Greece and one of the largest in the Mediterranean. With a total area of 8,303 square kilometers, it extends for a length of approximately 260 kilometers and a width varying from 60 to 12 kilometers at its narrowest point, the Isthmus of Ierapetra. Its coasts, which present a great variety, have a length of approximately 1,065 kilometers.
The island has a sharp topography and four major mountain complexes with many common features (Rackham et al. 2004: 17). To the west are the White Mountains or Madares, with at least 20 peaks exceeding 2,200 meters and the highest, Pachnes, reaching 2,453 meters. In its central part stretches Psiloritis or Idi, which is also the highest mountain group of the island, with the highest peak Timios Stavros at 2,456 meters.
To the east of Psiloritis is the Dikti or Lasithiotika Mountains with an altitude of 2,148 meters, while, finally, even further east stretch the Mountains of Thrypti or Mounts of Sitia, with an altitude of 1,476 meters. The large mountain ranges are flanked by smaller mountain masses. The area covered by the mountains of Crete amounts to 52% of its total area, in contrast to the lowlands, which cover only 3.6% (Chaniotis 1999: 181). Therefore, the strongly mountainous character of the island becomes more than evident.
Coasts
both the height of the coasts of Crete and the sea level have undergone significant changes. It is known that the western coasts of the island underwent a strong uplift, as a result of tectonic action, which is chronologically placed in the 5th century. AD 200). It is estimated that in the ancient ports of Falasarna and Kissamos the coast was raised by approximately 6 meters, while the ancient ports of SW Crete up to approximately 8 meters.
Geological formations
What constitutes a special feature of the Cretan environment is the wide variety of geological formations. Caves, gorges and plateaus are key components of the Cretan landscape (for the specific characteristics of the Cretan environment see Rackham et al. 2004: 33 – 40). It is typical that 5,200 caves and karst formations have been recorded in Crete, of which 3,100 have their own toponym (Paragamian 2004).
Crete, after all, is the island of 100 canyons, which with narrow and vertical walls intersect the Cretan landscape, starting from the mountains and ending at the Sea. In the area of Sfakia alone, and at a distance of 35 kilometers, there is a concentration of 15 parallel canyons, one of which is the famous gorge of Samaria. Between the mountain masses of the island, many plateaus are formed, about 25 in number, which are also a special feature of Crete and are related to its peculiar tectonic history.
The largest of these are the plateau of Lasithi, on Mount Dikti at an altitude of 850 meters, which is also the largest flat area on the island (with dimensions of approximately 5 by 5 kilometers), the plateau of Omalos, in the White Mountains at an altitude of 700 meters , the Askifou plateau and, finally, Nida in Psiloritis at an altitude of 1,400 meters. Most of them collect large amounts of water, flowing from the surrounding mountains, which is why the typical ground cover of a plateau is silt.
Rivers and Lakes
Due to its small width, Crete does not have large rivers. Most of them are seasonal and in summer they are completely dry. Only ten of its rivers have year-round water, and these usually start from some source. The largest rivers of the island are Geropotamos and Anapodiaris, in the area of Messara, Tyflos and Kolenis in the plain of Chania, as well as Koiliaris, Megas Potamos and Kourtaliotis.
In earlier times, however, the rivers may have contained more water than they do today. The island has only one notable lake, the lake of Kournas (the Korisia of the ancients) in the area of Apokoronas. The rest are rather waterholes that retain water seasonally. On the island there are also several marshy areas that are usually found either near ravines or around coastal springs or finally near the coasts (salt marshes) at the mouths of rivers. Several of them have now disappeared due to drainage projects.
Climate
The current climate of Crete is characterized as mild Mediterranean, with clearly separated seasons. Winters are rainy and usually mild and summers are hot and dry. However, due to the great variety in its morphology, which has just been described, there are also large differences in climate from region to region. Moreover, in earlier periods, and in the Classical and Hellenistic periods, it seems that the climate was colder and the snowfall more frequent.
Chania
The terrain of Chania ismountainous and hilly. The exception is the plain of Chania. Further distribution of soil types is as follows: 18% is flat, 19% mountainus and 63% hilly.
In Chania there is one of the highest mountains of the island, the White Mountains or Lefka The highest peak is Pachnes (2,452 m). Located in the S.E part of the county and extends up to the coast. Forming several peaks and plateaus.
The only large plains of the county is that of Chania, which occupies the northern part. Small plains also formed in the southern province of Apokoronas. In the county are also some smaller plateaux. The most important are, Omalos, Anopoleos, Askifou and Improu.The county has only small rivers or streams. The most important are, Koleni, Tavronitis, Kalamonitis, Keritis, Therisanos, Kiliaris, Xydes, and Vrissiani Kakodikianos.
The coast of Chania is manifold. Main features are: the Kissamos and Chania bays, the Souda Almyros Sougia and Agia Roumeli coves, and the capes Wuxi, Spando and Drapano.
The White Mountains, especially on the southern slopes are covered with pines. Small forests of chestnut trees found in the western part of the county. The climate is temperate in the prefecture with many rains. The winter there are snows fall on the White Mountains.
Rethymno
The territory of Rethymno is mostly mountainous. In Rethymno is the mountain Ida. Occupies the East and SE part of the county with highest peak the Holy Cross (2,456 m). To the west ending the eastern foothills of the Sierra Mountains of Chania.
There are only some small coastal plains, such as Perivolos and Stavromenos and valleys, as Mylopotamos and St. Vasileios. There are small rivers with many tributaries, which flow into the Cretan Sea. The main ones are: Mouselas, Petres, Rethymnon and Mylopotamos.The shores of the county do not have many coves as the other prefectures of Crete. In the south is formed the bay Plaka and the Gulf of Mesaras.
The forests of the county located in the southern foothills of Mount Ida and consist of oak and charoupies.The climate is temperate with enough moisture in the seaside.
Heraklion
The territory of Heraklion county has the characteristics of the Cretan soil.The only difference is that here formed the great plain of Messara and the plain of Heraklion. In the west of the county there are the secondary peaks of Psiloritis (Ida) and to the east the peaks of Dikti. A branch of Dikti progresses along the coast from the province of Viannou and forms a secondary mountain range, the Asterousia Mountains.
There are two valleys in Heraklion: Messara and Heraklion. These two plains are the most important of Crete.
The major rivers of the county are Giofyros emanating from Psiloritis and empties into the Gulf of Heraklion and Geropotamos springing from Asterousia Mountains and empties into the Gulf of Messara. The main features of the coast of Heraklion are: the Gulf of Messara in SW Cape Stone at the south, Cape Sidon in the SE, Cape Cross to the northwest, the Gulf of Heraklion to the North and the Gulf of Malia on North East. The climate in Heraklion is Mediterranean with mild winters and cool summers
Lasithi
The soil in Lasithi is hilly and mountainous and there are only two large plains. In the western part of the county rises the mountain of Dikti or Lasithiotika Mountains. The main peaks are the Entichtis (2148 m), Spathi (2140 m) and Psari Madara (2141 m). In the center of the peninsula of Sitia rise the Mountains of Sitia. They are the natural continuation of Dikti There are two large plateaus: the Handra and the Armeni. In prehistoric times the Lassithi plateau was a lake. Lassithi has small rivers, which consists of main streams. The main ones are the Xiropotamos emanating from Dikti, Almyros, the Big River and Antarounitis.
In the town of Aghios Nikolaos is a small lake, which communicates with the sea.
The most important features of the coast of Lassithi is the Cape Saint John, the Spinalonga peninsula, the Gulf of Mirabello, the Sitia bay and the cape Sideros. In ancient times the mountains of Lassithi were dense forests. Today, however, are very dilute. The climate of the county is Mediterranean, with mild winters and cool summers.